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Vacuums
SUCTION vs AIRFLOW
The most important element about a vacuum is suction, right? That couldn't be further from the truth. So, why is suction the most advertised word regarding vacuums then? Well, that's due to a few reasons: it's a catchy word, easy to demonstrate, and is quite often used as a cheap marketing trick.
What's more important than suction then? Airflow! Under maximum "suction", you have 0 "airflow. Airflow is what moves the dust and debris. So what purpose does suction surve then? Suction mainly helps pull through clogs, as the increased pressure helps force debris through the system that might otherwise get clogged. Suction should indicate if pre motor side of the system is sealed, because a non sealed system will leak air, therefore reducing suction, as you can't have good suction if air is getting in somewhere else in the system.... if only it was that simple. When you clog the main intake nozzle (to feel the vacuum's suction), the system will start to contract, and even with minor leakages in the system, it will contract enough to close up those leakages; therefore giving you good suction. Deceptive, right! If the leakages in the system are simply too large, then the system will not contract, therefore giving you poor suction. A well built vacuum will virtually none to very limited leakages.
The way the motor is programmed will also affect how much suction the vacuum has. For example, some motors are programmed to reduce it's strength when it's under too much load. Why would a motor be programmed to do this? If you have too much direct suction (or pressure) on a surface, you have a lack of airflow, so by reducing the suction, it's increasing the airflow. An increase in airflow, means an increase in performance. Reducing the suction could mean it will have a harder time pulling through debris that may clog the vacuum, but having large nozzle openings, as well as good air speed, will together limit the number of clogs.
ATTACHMENTS
The attachment being used is one of the biggest factors on how much suction a vacuum has on a surface. For example, if the attachment is poorly vented, and lacks any sort of adjustability, it will cause too much direct suction on the surface. Too much suction = little airflow.
On HARDFLOOR, the attachment should utilize wheels and/or bristles to elevate itself, which will allow the air to move. A balance needs to be found, as an excessive amount of venting may lead to large debris not being picked up, as the airflow is not concentrated enough, and too little venting may lead too much direct suction on the surface. The overall size of the attachment factors in as well, as the smaller the attachment, the more concentration of airflow you will have. Some utilize a raised front end of the attachment, which allows large debris to be picked up more effectively, however this reduce it's effectiveness on uneven / rough flooring, and deep grouting, because the raised front edge excessively vents air. Powerful canister motors are required to compensate, and this is partially why not all attachments will work equally on a given canister. Battery operated units will typically utilize a rotating brush to assist with picking up the debris, whereas plug-in units can use straight air tools, as plug-ins typically develop significantly more airflow.
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Some good examples of floor brushes / straight air tools are: Sebo Parquet Premium, Sebo Kombi, Miele SBB 300-3, Miele SBD 380-3.
On CARPET / RUGS, rotating brushes with individual bristles rapped around the roller are designed to open up the pile to allow the air to flow more effectively. The rotating brush also helps relieve hair from the pile. Some designs though are superior to others. For example, powerheads with height adjustment allow you get the brush to the right height relative to the pile thickness, which means the brush typically won't be too low or high during it's operation. If you're on a setting that feels too low, but then the next setting feels too high, adjusting the motor strength of the main canister will you fine tune it, to then get to the right setting. If the powerhead does not have height adjustment, you will then make adjustments by increasing or decreasing the motor power of the main canister. If the head is sticking to the pile like a suction cup, and you need to turn the power way way down to make it easier to push, you do not have the correct kind of powerhead for that pile. Remember, too much suction (pressure) means there's little air moving, but if you're turning down the power too much to relieve the pressure, you're going to have little overall airflow either way. Powerheads without height adjustment should almost always utilize a soft bristle brush roller, as a stiff brush on a non adjustable head may damage the pile - this is why many carpet and rug manufacturer warranties are voided when powerheads are used. Straight air attachments will never deep clean like a powerhead, as there is no way to effectively open the pile without a rotating brush. Straight air carpet / rug attachments should be designed with a decent amount of venting, as it is very easy for them to stick like a suction cup - leading to poor cleaning results (also hard to push). Straight air attachments are ideal for thin pile/ or limited rugs, but powerheads are best for performance, especially for picking up hair.
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Some good examples of powerheads are: Sebo ET-1, Sebo X4, Miele SEB 236, Miele SEB 228, Miele SEB 217
Powerheads are beater bars, right? Nope. Beater bars are a built in ridge on a brush roller. When this ridge is rotating on a pile, it beats it, which is intended to loosen up the debris. That being said, it can just as easily beat the debris further into the pile, and is also very harsh on the pile itself - wearing it down. This is another why many carpet and rugs manufacturer warranties are voided when a powerhead is used. Beater bars are simply an ineffective way of cleaning carpet. To sum it up, a powerhead with a standard round brush roller is not a beater bar.
HEPA FILTRATION
Are all "HEPA" graded vacuums equal? Well, there's multiple grades of hepa, ranging from H11- H14 and beyond. The
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